Is Morocco safe? A practical guide for travellers

"Is Morocco safe?" is the question we hear most often from people planning their first trip — usually right after "how cold is the desert at night?". We live and work here, and we drive these roads every week. This guide is our honest answer: what actually goes wrong for visitors, how to avoid it, and where a little local help makes the biggest difference.

Is Morocco safe for tourists? The honest picture

Tourism matters enormously here, and you will notice it: tourist police in the big medinas, guards at the main monuments, hotel and riad staff who know every face that comes through the door. Moroccans are, in our experience, quick to help a lost visitor, and most travellers leave with stories about hospitality rather than trouble.

That does not mean nothing ever happens. Phones get lifted in crowds, prices get inflated, and a "helpful" stranger may expect payment. Like anywhere, situations change, so before you book, read the latest travel advice from your own government's foreign ministry — it is updated far more often than any blog post, including this one.

Medinas: hassle, fake guides and common tricks

The old walled cities of Marrakech and Fes are where first-time visitors feel most on edge. The lanes are narrow, the signs are few, and you will be offered help every few minutes. Almost none of it is dangerous; some of it is designed to cost you money. The patterns repeat:

• "That way is closed." A friendly young man tells you the street ahead is shut, or the square is "that way", and walks you to a shop or a tannery where a fee is expected. Thank him and keep going.
• Unofficial guides. Licensed guides carry an official badge and agree a price in advance. Ask your riad to book one; do not follow whoever offers first.
• Photos with animals and performers. Monkeys, snake charmers and costumed water sellers in Jemaa el-Fna expect a tip for a photo — sometimes a large one. Agree the amount first, or keep the camera down.
• Henna that is not quite henna. Pushy henna artists may grab your hand before you agree. Black "henna" can contain chemicals that irritate skin; say no firmly and pull your hand back.

Pickpockets work the crowds in the main squares and souks in the evening. Carry a zipped bag across your front, keep your phone out of back pockets, and leave your passport in the hotel safe with a photo of it on your phone.

Two habits help more than anything. Download an offline map before you set out, so you can walk with purpose instead of looking lost. And save a pin for your riad: the alleys can look identical at night.

Money, prices and bargaining

Being overcharged is far more likely than being robbed. In the souks, bargaining is normal and nobody is offended by it. Decide what an item is worth to you before you ask, start well below the first price, and keep it friendly. If you walk away and the seller lets you go, your price was too low; that is fine too.

Use cash machines inside banks or shopping areas during the day, carry small notes for taxis and tips, and count your change. Cards work in many hotels and larger shops, but the countryside and the desert run mostly on cash.

Women travellers and what to wear

Many women travel through Morocco alone or in pairs and have a good trip. The most common complaint is verbal attention — comments, "hello gazelle", someone walking alongside for a while — especially in busy medinas. It is tiring rather than threatening in most cases, and it drops sharply once you are with a guide, a driver or a group.

• Ignore, don't engage. A short, firm "la, shukran" (no, thank you) and walking on works better than arguing.
• Dress with the place in mind. Covering shoulders and knees draws far less attention in cities and villages. A light scarf is useful for sun, dust and mosques.
• Choose your evening routes. Busy squares are fine at night; empty alleys late at night are where you want company. Riads will usually send someone to walk you back.
• Trust your instincts. Step into a shop, a café or a hotel lobby if someone will not leave you alone, and ask for help. People will step in.

Men should dress modestly too: long shorts are fine in town, but shirts stay on outside the beach and pool.

Getting around: taxis, trains and driving yourself

City taxis are cheap and generally safe. Ask for the meter, or agree the fare before you get in; at night and from the airport you will usually have to agree it. Trains between the main cities are comfortable and a good option. Long-distance buses are fine for budget travellers, but keep your valuables with you rather than in the hold.

The roads are the real risk in Morocco, more than crime. If you plan to rent a car, know what you are taking on:

• Avoid driving at night outside the cities. Bicycles, carts, donkeys and pedestrians are often unlit, and some trucks are too.
• Mountain passes need patience. The Tizi n'Tichka crosses the High Atlas at about 2,260 m, with long bends, slow trucks and, in winter, occasional snow and closures.
• Expect police checkpoints and speed checks. Slow down at every checkpoint, keep your licence, passport and rental papers handy, and stick to the limits through villages.
• Keep off the sand. A rental car belongs on the tarmac; the dunes and desert tracks are for 4x4s with local drivers.

Is the Sahara desert safe?

The desert areas visitors go to — Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, the Zagora region — are well used to travellers, with camps, guesthouses and local guides who know every dune. The main risks are natural, and they are easy to manage:

• Heat and sun. In July and August days can pass 40 °C. Drink often, wear a hat and save dune climbs for early morning and evening.
• Cold nights. From November to February the temperature can drop close to 0 °C. Bring a warm layer; camps provide heavy blankets.
• Getting lost. Dunes look alike, especially after dark. Do not wander off alone at night; if you climb for the stars, go with your guide or tell the camp where you are going.
• Small things. Shake out your shoes in the morning and use a torch when you walk between tents.

On our tours the camel ride to camp takes about 1 hour, with a cameleer leading the animals on foot the whole way. Our Merzouga desert guide covers the dunes and the area in detail, and our guide to a night in a Sahara desert camp explains what to pack for the temperatures.

Health and everyday precautions

• Water: most visitors drink bottled or filtered water and skip ice in simple places. A refillable bottle cuts plastic.
• Food: busy stalls with high turnover are usually a better bet than quiet ones. Peel fruit, and give your stomach a day or two to adjust.
• Pharmacies are everywhere in towns, marked with a green cross, and pharmacists often speak French.
• Insurance: travel with a policy that covers medical care and, if you plan it, activities like ballooning or quad biking.
• Emergency numbers: save 19 for the police and 15 for an ambulance, and keep your accommodation's number on your phone.

How a local driver makes the trip easier

Most of the stress points above disappear with someone local beside you. A driver knows which roads to avoid after dark, when the Tichka is likely to close, where to stop for a clean lunch and how much a fair price is. In the medinas, the touts lose interest quickly when you arrive with a local. And if something does go wrong — a lost bag, a stomach bug, a flat tyre in the middle of nowhere — you have someone who speaks the language and can make the calls.

That is the whole idea behind our 3-day Merzouga desert tour from Marrakech and the Marrakech to Fes desert tour: a local driver for the long roads, and a camp run by people who live at the edge of the dunes. If you would rather set your own pace, a private driver in Morocco works the same way, just for your group alone. Short on time? The Agafay desert day trip gives you a sunset in the stony desert without leaving Marrakech for the night, and our full list of Morocco desert tours shows every route.

Safety in Morocco: common questions